Friday, June 24, 2011

Sleeves

Wednesday and Thursday evenings were spent hiding in my basement, as the temperature is a few degrees cooler than upstairs. The window air conditioner unit is a lifesaver, but the air doesn't circulate particularly well, and I don't do well in the heat. The benefit of becoming a basement hermit is that my studio is in the basement.

I drafted a fitted curved sleeve pattern, largely based on the fitted sleeves in various commercial patterns such as Margo Anderson and Reconstructing History. This was an adventure in frustration as I have very bulky (fat batwings!) upper arms, but my arm length is ridiculously short. Remind me to install a mirror in my studio as well.

I figured I'd pin down the curved sleeve documentation a little later, as it's so accepted... and I've been a bit frustrated in trying to do so. I'll have to pull out my Janet Arnold library later to verify things... but all I've found so far is the use of curved sleeves in Alcega's men's doublet pattern. So yeah, the men did it... did the women really do it too? Probably, but I'd like proof. Regardless, I have my pattern, curved and all, and have cut out one layer in black linen. The other layer will be chocolate linen, and these will be reversible, with sewn-in green silk ribbons for tying them on. These ribbons are actually more olive/less minty than the picture shows.


I got my silk ribbons from Wm. Booth Draper, and I can't say how much I love this shop. Last year I bought their bone bodkin, embroidery waxer, and rosewood needlecase, and I *heart* them.

5 comments:

  1. Sleeves! The most neglected accessory in Artemisia, haha. Does the top of your sleeve pattern make an "S" or a "C" shape? I want really fitted arms, and don't have a sleeve pattern yet.

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  2. I'm doing mine in two pieces - the upper is curved downward (shown in black in the picture), the lower sleeve curves upward.  Once you sew them together, they become the S, but doing it in two pieces allows for more manipulation in fitting.  Mine aren't super tight fitting, as I do want to be able to move well (camp garb), but also because being lined in linen they won't slide on as easily as my slippery silk dressy ones.  I did read somewhere that you can start a pattern by simply laying your arm in a very slightly curved angle on the paper and tracing it, and go from there.

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  3. Oh, and I know what you mean by neglected!  Bah.  I felt like a doofus that I didn't have any done for Quest.  I suppose I could have sucked it up and used my aqua ones... derp.  

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  4. I love the fact that my studio is in the basement too!  Just recently I finally got a tiny oven just for firing my clay, but even when I'm a-cookin' up a zibie head (boy, that just sounds wrong!) I can just open the outside door and my little room stays all nice and cool!

    I actually made sleeves a little while ago, a pair for my old brown and black gown (finally! lol) and a pair for my upcoming new purple kirtle.  Yes.  Holly actually used a sewing machine.  Did I mention that I HATE SEWING???  But, in an effort to try to get over my sewing loathing (hey, that's kinda fun to say!), I have decided to do the Artemisian Costuming Challenge.  Noelle, I really hope you don't hate me before it's done!  ;)

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  5. Yay!  I'm in as well, though I wiffled a bit due to my personal angst.  Hah.  

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