Saturday, December 31, 2011

ACC Wrap-up Post

I have neglected to write my wrap-up post regarding the Artemisian Costuming Challenge, so let's get that done, shall we?  Links will take you to tagged blog posts for more information on my process and documentation.

Layer #1 (Skin) - Linen Camicia, hand sewn and embroidered in silk.  
Layer #1 Budget - $0 spent.  All materials came from my stash, including silk floss and beeswax for embroidery.

Layer #2 (main gown) - Damask sottana and silk sleeves.
Layer #2 Budget - This is where I splurged. 
$25.20 on beads for the sleeves.
$23.98 on silk fabric
$8.99 on satin ribbons to attach sleeves
All other materials are from my stash.

Layer #3 (Accessory) - Partlet
Layer #3 Budget - $0 spent.  All materials from stash.

I had a lot of grandiose plans for a beaded/couched partlet, but due to time constraints, I made a simple Florentine partlet.  It is cut out of one piece of fabric, and ties under the arms to hold it in place.  It's designed based on a combination of these two portraits, both by Bronzino, wherein the first clearly has no shoulder seams, and the second has an added collar.  I will still be doing a more fancy partlet, but at a later date with no time restrictions.

Layer #4 (Warmth) - Fur-lined muff with gold-worked trim, hand sewn

Layer #4 Budget
- $12.00 for thrift store fur coat to reinvent.  All other materials from stash.

I had intended mantelinne or Dutch Cloak for my warmth layer, but burned out, so I'm calling this my final layer.  It's for warmth, right?  My late start in the challenge due to scribal activities put me behind schedule, and I simply couldn't sacrifice my sanity over the holidays to rush making another layer.

Total budget -  $70.17

My overall experience was a good one.  I finally used some of my stash materials, and have a pretty new gown for the court season.  I do intend to add pieces to this for versatility, including a silk veste, beaded partlet, netted caul, and long pearl necklaces.  I have already secured most of the materials needed for these, so you can look forward to seeing them in the future.

Thank you, Maestra Bianca for spearheading this challenge and inspiring so many people.

Monday, December 12, 2011

Butter Yellow Damask Sottana - Complete!

My sottana is complete!  Joyous noise!

I was up until about midnight Friday night, doing finishing touches on the sleeves, and attaching lacing rings for said sleeves.  I was determined to get them done so I could the new gown to Solstice Court.

The event was beautiful, the company was divine, and everyone looked magnificent.  I feel so blessed to live among such wonderful, talented people.  Noelle, you always leave me in awe with your elegance and generosity.

So enough with the talk, it's time to see what I did!

The sleeves are a warm golden yellow silk taffeta, flat-lined with linen to add some durability, and lined in ivory silk taffeta.  Strips were assembled into a chevron pattern, resulting in looking a bit like a pseudo-spiral sleeve.  I won't say much about my construction techniques on them, as you can buy Lynn McMaster's spiral sleeve pattern.  I used her instructions, with my own sleeve pattern.  My arms never fit commercial patterns.

While I haven't strictly found portraiture of spiral or chevron sleeves exactly like this in Florence, this portrait of Isabel de Valois clearly has spiral sleeves, and the below portrait of Laudomia de Medici has chevron-esque sleeves.  I feel confident that extrapolation of these to what I created is well within the realm of what could have been done.

Isabel de Valois
Laudomia de Medici

My partlet was a simple straightforward partlet to use until I get a fancy couched and beaded one done.  I may be adding some gold lace to the edges of this to fancy it up a bit, but I was relatively pleased with how quickly it came together.  This was cut as one solid piece (no shoulder seams), which made the stripes end up in a fun diagonal bias angle.  I kind of like that.  This partlet was sewn 100% by hand. 

Enzo, the melancholy zibillino was made by the ever fabulous Holly/Aine of The Sable Greyhound.  Her work is always marvelous, and you should go check out her shop at the link above.  She also has an etsy shop.  Okay, enough with the crass commercial announcements.  I just love sharing her with the world because everything she's made for me is amazingly beautiful.  She also made the necklace, earrings, and girdle belt I wore to Solstice.

Photo by Kao Martin and blatantly stolen by me.
I was lazy and didn't take a camera, so I'm forced to thieve this picture taken by Kao.  I haven't seen any full length photos pop up anywhere either, so this will have to do for now.  I'll try to get more images taken at 12th Night.

Monday, December 5, 2011

Silk Sleeves Sneak Peek

I spent almost the entire weekend cutting strips of silk and linen, and magically converting an ugly pile of strips of fabric into tubes of fabric, and then magically turning tubes of fabric into what will one day be some pretty cool sleeves, if I can pull it off properly.  Will I be done by Solstice Court?  I damn well intend to be!

All I can say right now is that what I'm doing is very time consuming, but hopefully the results will be worth it.  Also, rotary cutters are the bomb.  Don't know how I lived without one before.  I kinda wish I'd gotten the bigger mat now.  Also, my entire house is covered in flitting bits of silk thread.  Supportive boyfriend is slightly annoyed.